It’s Bangkok, just not as you know it

It's Bangkok, just not as you know it

It’s develop into lots cooler by the river in Bangkok since we have been gone. I do not imply that the Chao Phraya, that slinking equatorial cocoa-coloured serpent that curls via this metropolis of virtually 11 million and can be the town’s grand aquatic superhighway, is the place to flee the enervating warmth.

Bangkok, in any case, is formally the world’s fourth hottest capital and a miracle cool breeze wafting up from the Gulf of Thailand is as uncommon right here as a toned-down road hawker’s tom yum goong.

No, what I imply is that Bangkok has develop into cool in one other sense completely. Hip. Happening. Arty. It’s the kind of culturally-driven coolness that would go a protracted strategy to remodeling its at occasions seedy worldwide picture.

And that is largely all occurring proper beside the river, nonetheless lined with teetering, ramshackle teak homes and towered over by eclectic spiritual pagodas, steeples and minarets. These houses, many now transformed into eating places, cafes and bars, appear poised at any second to tip into the river filled with circling cat-fish, absurdly plump from their diets of the unspeakable contents of the notoriously befouled Chao Phraya.

Without colleges of vacationers – due to the pandemic – to clog the splendidly haphazard, overstuffed and unplanned streets and alleys of riverside Talat Noi and Bang Rak neighbourhoods, Bangkokians, a lot of them younger, have been drawn again to the river by an an incipient artwork scene and a bunch of glowing new developments.

Here, targeted in and across the considerably prosaically-dubbed Creative District and effectively inside view of the waterway, the customer will encounter a burgeoning variety of artwork galleries, eateries, bars and what’s now the epicentre of Bangkok’s vibrant road artwork motion.

Soon sufficient, as the vacationers trickle again, the river correct will return to one thing approaching the interesting chaos that has all the time characterised it and made me love it.

Meanwhile for guests like me there’s nonetheless appreciable life to be discovered on its banks. Come with me as we discover this stunning and compelling aspect of Bangkok, always sticking near the banks of the royal Chao Phraya, the “River of Kings”.


Aerial view landscape of Bangkok city in Thailand with clouds and river. SatMay14Cover

Photo: Getty Images

The Chao Phraya winds its approach via Bangkok. Photo: Getty Images

One of probably the most enthusiastic advocates for the Chao Phraya and its cultural tourism is David Robinson, an expat Australian who curates, a necessary on-line information championing the underrated allures of the Chao Phraya and the companies which function on and beside it.

“For better or worse, Bangkok has become known as a destination for shopping, nightlife and massage,” Robinson says. “Precincts like Ratchaprasong, Sukhumvit, Chatuchak Market, and Patpong offer the traveller instant gratification. But for those seeking out the real Bangkok, the Chao Phraya is the place to base yourself and explore. People of all walks and backgrounds have gravitated to the area to open galleries, restaurants, small offices and the like.”

The actuality, although, is that the Thai capital has suffered a close to deadly Thai kick boxing-style straight foot jab direct to its financial photo voltaic plexus due to COVID, with tourism the largest casualty. I’m among the many first international guests to return to the as soon as frenetic Thai capital and, frankly, I barely recognise it.

Bangkok’s fleet of restaurant boats, gaudily lit in neon by evening stay deathly idle, tethered to jetties awaiting the return of international vacationers. And the long-tails, the Chao Phraya’s most distinctive watercraft propelled by crudely although cleverly-adapted thunderous automotive engines, are conspicuous by their absence.

The seasonal clumps of pesky water hyacinth that float down the Chao Phraya are lacking, too, throughout this go to although the procession of unlovely, a number of gray cargo barges, dragged alongside by straining tugs to and from the port, continues largely unabated.

With the majority of abroad guests – notably the big-spending Chinese and Russians – but to return, the Chao Phraya, with a complete size of 372 kilometres, is within the midst of an prolonged and completely unfamiliar hiatus.

Even the site visitors jams, which is able to by no means go away, appear much less extreme, which means you get trapped in them for an hour fairly than the earlier requisite two or three. There’s all the time the ever-expanding, gridlock-beating BTS Skytrain, the elevated speedy transit system, and a two, quickly to be three-line underground railway.

“The pandemic hit Bangkok hard,” says Robinson. “International tourism virtually stopped from one day to the next. For two years businesses dependent on foreign visitors struggled. However, with people unable to travel, it proved to be a wonderful time for people locked in Thailand to explore the country.”

As a end result, 1000’s flocked to the Creative District and Talat Noi to discover their very own yard. It’s additionally been a time when companies have been reworked by younger and passionate entrepreneurs, many who’ve hung out overseas, together with in Australia. Importantly, says Robinson, there’s “an appreciation of the past in the creation of the new present”.


A barista, at work in the lobby of the Four Seasons Bangkok hotel, is pictured near an artwork depicting the course of the nearby Chao Phraya River which runs by the hotel.

Photo: supplied

Four Seasons Bangkok.

My go to begins with a nasal swab (not required) taken in model in a lodge limo at a hospital after I’m picked up on the airport. I’m then transported to the elegant 299-room Four Seasons Bangkok at Chao Phraya River the place I’m staying for a number of nights..This five-star lodge opened just months earlier than the pandemic was declared, and is likely one of the newest 5 stars alongside the waterway. It’s set to ship some formidable competitors to the opposite extra established luxurious lodges beside the river.

The earlier Four Seasons Bangkok was within the centre of city close to Lumphini Park, bustling Bangkok’s inexperienced public lung. This was effectively away from the Chao Phraya. But in a telling indication of the power of the river’s revival, Four Seasons dedicated to finding its new luxurious hotel-cum-urban-resort proper beside it, after noting that visitors have been eager to be near the waterway.

“The river really is the heartbeat of Bangkok, and more and more locals and tourists are coming down to the river to explore the culture, both new and old, in the area,” says Czech-born Lubosh Barta, basic supervisor of Four Seasons Bangkok at Chao Phraya River.

“Additionally, the development of the Creative District is a great opportunity for our guests to connect with the new, young side of Bangkok, while still having easy access to all the great Bangkok attractions.”

So keen is the lodge to attach with this space that it’s staging “POV: Streets of BKK”, an exhibition of Bangkok road artwork, held together with the town’s Museum of Contemporary Art, inside ART Space, the lodge’s personal sizeable gallery. It will run till the tip of July.


One of the works featured in the Four Season Bangkok's in-house street art exhibition.

Photo: supplied

One of the works featured within the Four Season Bangkok’s in-house road artwork exhibition

Guests on the Four Seasons can ebook and take a guided tour of the Creative District, targeted across the densely populated previous neighbourhoods close to Chinatown and loosely bounded by Charoen Krung Road, the town’s first paved thoroughfare, that traces a route roughly parallel to the Chao Phraya.

Much of the river’s revival, says Robinson, extends alongside its west financial institution from Klongsan to Kudeejeen with labyrinthine backstreets, markets, gardens and eateries. There’s a decidedly colonial flavour to the structure of this a part of Bangkok, although Thailand has by no means been colonised by a international energy.

Yet in a testomony to its cosmopolitan and buying and selling previous, the river embraces many religions, together with Christianity, Islam and Buddhism. Today, our guided tour begins down a palm-fringed laneway at ATT 19, a posh that may be a refined fusion of artwork, design and eating places set over two flooring in a restored late Nineteenth-century Chinese schoolhouse.

I pause for a cool drink on the funky inhouse cafe with its tiny courtyard stuffed with sculptures earlier than heading as much as the primary ground, which has gorgeous uncovered timber ceiling beams. Here there are common shows of up to date artwork which ATT 19 reveals and curates with a brand new present staged each month or so.

When I go to there’s a powerful exhibition by Thai artist Udom Udomsrianan which incorporates capsule-like fake sleeping pods crafted from strips of bamboo. Next door to ATT19 is Lek Gallery, the place most of the daring native modern Thai artworks which adorn the foyer of the Four Seasons have been sourced.

The genesis of the Creative District might be traced not a lot to Talat Noi and Bang Rak however to the opposite aspect of the river the place one among Thailand’s main architects, Duangrit Bunnag, shocked everybody by transferring his observe to a warehouse on the improper aspect of the river.

He redeveloped and refashioned the house as the Jam Factory, now dwarfed by the capital’s newest upscale mega-mall, ICONSIAM, which comes full with its personal indoor and sanitised road meals shops and faus khlong, or canals, certain to save lots of vacationers from any potential bout of Bangkok stomach.

Some years later Bunnag launched Warehouse 30, a restored Japanese munitions retailer used throughout World War II. Now, roughly the focus of the Creative District, it’s jam-full of cool galleries, shops and cafes.

The close by and riverside Portuguese Embassy proved one other catalyst for the event of the district and its road artwork motion. It commissioned a serious and intriguing mural by Portuguese road artist Vhils on the street-side wall of its compound.

He created the work in his signature chiselling model, paying homage to Bangkok, its residents, and the historic ties between Thailand and Portugal. To correctly admire and interpret the work, you must step effectively again from it, although watch out for marauding tuk tuks as you do.

Of course, this being the “Big Mango”, as Bangkok is nicknamed, the Creative District is stuffed with eccentricities. It shares its riverside area with gritty automotive workshops and their greasy spare components which spill onto the road.

While it might ultimately develop into extra genteel, the photogenically grungy Creative District is an enormous hit with native Instagrammers who like to pose in such locations as the ramshackle Mother Roaster cafe with its partitions adorned with road artwork and a floor ground stacked with automotive and boat spare components.

Rather than disposing of the junk, the house owners determined to depart it in situ and function the cafe upstairs. During a current mild competition the spare components are strategically spotlit in lurid purple mild.

Elsewhere, So Heng Tai, one of many oldest surviving mansions within the space, with a stupendous vermillion door and lantern-draped entrance, is now a restaurant. Its eighth technology house owners have put in a deep swimming pool proper in the course of its courtyard the place scuba diving classes are held. Well, that is Bangkok for you.

“The Creative District is spawning an incredible amount of creativity and energy as well as an evolution in what people might have previously thought about Bangkok,” says Barta. “The younger generations are creating their versions of Bangkok, and the execution is truly inspiring. I can already see signs of the district continuing to expand south, past our hotel, and continuing to evolve in the neighbourhoods around the river.”

Amid all this creativity, routine neighbourhood life manages to proceed and coexist. The native residents worship at their temples, youngsters play in slim lanes, folks of all ages carry out group callisthenics collectively in a Chao Phraya-side sq. and a tuk tuk is parked exterior a riverside home, prepared for its subsequent shift.


Back on the Four Seasons, a sanctuary from the overly speedy pulse of this nonetheless crazed and at occasions maddening South-Asian metropolis – traits, which is able to all the time be an integral a part of its appeal – the lodge is doing greater than its bit so as to add the river’s new discovered cool.

Its moody, dimly-lit principal bar, the Bangkok Social Club, just steps from the river, is impressed by the artwork nouveau speakeasies of Buenos Aires. It was lately named one among Asia prime 10 bars. The lodge’s modern Cantonese restaurant, in the meantime, has obtained a star within the Thai Michelin Guide.

The lodge varieties one a part of the bold Chao Phraya Estate which additionally comprises Four Seasons Private Residences as effectively as one other ritzy five-star and an prolonged promenade beside the Chao Phraya, offering uncommon uninterrupted direct entry to the Chao Phraya.

One late afternoon, with the solar, quickly being rendered a deep Miss Saigon pink bauble and starting to slide under the skyline throughout the river, contained in the Bangkok Social Club I sit with Barta, who labored within the hospitality business in Australia within the earlier a part of his profession.

“There is huge potential for the neighbourhoods around the Chao Phraya River,” he says over one of many bar’s signature BA-themed cocktails. “We have seen incredible growth over the last few years, and there is no sign of it slowing. I can see the Chao Phraya River quickly becoming the place in Bangkok to visit and one of the best neighbourhoods in the world.”


Bangkok's Khlong Phadung Krung Kasem canal has been cleaned up and now offers free, eco-friendly electric boat rides.
Photo: Inge Holst

 Photo: Inge Holst

Bangkok’s river revival is not confined to its art-filled banks. To correctly take pleasure in and perceive it, it helps to be out and on it. However, any pleasure should be tempered by the truth that the Chao Phraya stays one of many world’s most intractably polluted waterways.

In the previous fancifully dubbed the “Venice of the East” as a result of intricate community of canals or khlongs that run off it just like the filthy fingers of a unclean hand, the river’s treacly waters have been as soon as memorably described by a guidebook as a “liquid coma”.

But whereas we have been away hope has emerged. An electrical passenger boat service was launched as a part of a clear power venture instigated by the unelected Prime Minister Prayut Chan-o-cha, who heads Thailand’s navy authorities.

The boats run previous tree-lined, rehabilitated banks criss-crossed by repainted and restored iron foot and street bridges within the Khlong Phadung Krung Kasem, close to the grand previous and shortly to be decommissioned railway station.

The water, nonetheless a barely off-putting olive inexperienced, appears a lot more healthy than Bangkok’s different canals, although that would not be laborious.

Departing from Hua Lamphong Railway Station Pier, I board one of many seven electrical fibreglass boats, every transporting 30 passengers. Each boat is ready to run for 4 hours per cost and journey at a delicate 10 to fifteen kilometres an hour. Each is fitted with solar-panelled roofs to assist energy the motor and lamps.

For now, rides on the boats are free to encourage locals and vacationers to strive the service. This ain’t Venice fairly but, or ever might be, however as token as an environmental measure as it could also be, it’s an encouraging begin.

Bangkok might not be fairly the town it was once, and that will not be such a foul factor, however it’s definitely packing much more bang on your buck apart from its river. How cool is that?



Down a fairly nameless soi, or laneway, off busy Charoen Krung Road in Bang Rak, this tiny diner is at no threat of creating the Thai Michelin information. But it’s effectively value a go to for its low-cost and delectable homestyle cooking as effectively as for its wonderful, partially al fresco, setting which delivers a real style of Old Bangkok, together with historical banyan timber embedded with Buddhist motifs and Thai memorabilia collected from the house owners over many a long time. See


Just after we thought military disposals shops had been disposed of, alongside comes Horse Brigade at Warehouse 30. This store takes it all to a different degree with its choice of classic navy clothes, military antiques and posters. Upstairs, is the marginally extra sober life-style retailer Woot Woot, promoting offbeat retro gadgets for the house. Retire together with your purchases to the superb Coffee Roaster by Li-bra-ry, a couple of doorways down from Horse Brigade, which additionally has a classy frock store on the rear. See


Tucked behind a Buddhist temple and a tad past the Creative District, Samsara might be tough to search out, even with Google Maps, however it’s effectively definitely worth the effort. This timber-clad Thai-Japanese bar and eatery is perched proper on the sting of Chao Phraya’s waters, a lot in order that it can really feel like you’re in some type of rickety houseboat. It’s an awesome spot for a cruisy tipple and a deal with and there are few higher locations to observe the river and its myriad vessels float by. No web site


Talk a few minimalist reno. Slap bang the center of Talat Noi, Patina is ready in a Chinese-style home constructed through the reign of King Rama I (1737 – 1809) By day Patina operates as a hip cafe; at evening it’s a bar with reside music carried out in a courtyard, replete with its personal effectively, linking to a constructing on the rear which holds exhibitions. When the trio of mates who personal and run the cafe-bar first refurbished the home, they have been decided to retain as a lot of its flaking patina, therefore the identify, as doable. See


When vacationers go to a home-based museum in Bangkok it’s invariably the exquisitely-restored and maintained Jim Thompson’s House. Far much less polished is that this vintage Thai home that varieties the Bangkok Folk Museum, donated to the general public by its proprietor Waraporn Suravadee in 2004. Her traditional wood abode is preserved together with a lot of her possessions, and there is barely a single pane of glass with a mess of timber window shutters retaining the within cool. The two-storey home is ready inside tropical gardens.



Rooms at Four Seasons Bangkok at Chao Phraya River from THB12,600 ($516) plus taxes an evening. 300/1 Charoen Krung Rd, Khwaeng Yan Nawa, Khet Sathon, Bangkok. Ph:+66 2 032 0888. See fourseasons/bangkok Four Seasons additionally operates three further five-star resorts in Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai and Koh Samui. See


Thai Airways function common direct flights to Bangkok’s foremost Suvarnabhumi Airport from Sydney and Melbourne. See


Fully-guided excursions of the Creative District and in addition Kudeejeen, Bangkok’s historic Portuguese district, might be reserved instantly via the concierge at Four Seasons Bangkok at Chao Phraya River. An glorious useful resource for any keep beside the Chao Phraya is It’s an informative information to the most effective cultural and culinary sights.


For getting across the river, taxis are air-conditioned, safer, plentiful and much cheaper than tuk tuks however arguably not as a lot enjoyable. The foremost public ferry, stopping at piers alongside the Chao Phraya, is a discount and an pleasing strategy to see the town, together with Talat Noi and Bang Rak. See


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